Golden Fried Rice

Basic economy style

A few weeks ago, Alex and I flew to Seattle for the weekend to visit friends. Alex was attending a medical conference in Washington the following week and I decided to tag along for the weekend. It was all sunshine with a side of crisp, bay air. Peak Seattle weather, we were told. It turned out to be a meticulously crafted weekend of great food, craft beer, and hiking up the side of a very steep mountain. For this out-of-towner, it felt like a best-of re-introduction to the Pacific Northwest.

I’m typically in charge of booking our airfare when Alex and I travel but because this was a work trip, Alex booked both of our flights. When I checked in for our flight the night prior to our departure, I was surprised to learn that Alex had booked me on basic economy, the rock-bottom tier offered by United. “Did you know that you booked me basic economy?” I asked. “I can’t even bring a carry-on…” “I assumed we always flew basic economy,” Alex replied. “Huh?!” I huffed. “Why would you think that? We’ve never once flown basic economy!” “Because it’s the cheapest option,” she explained, matter-of-factly. “I thought we just walked on with our bags anyway.” I gave her a quizzical look. It landed somewhere between annoyed and amused. “Are you flying basic economy?” I asked. “No. I’m flying for work,” she said.

I was admittedly a bit miffed by this entire conversation. Mostly because our trusted luggage strategy over the years has always been carry-on-at-all-costs. I recently packed for a three week trip to Italy and Croatia, including wedding attire, in one carry-on bag. I mean, who wants to be waiting at the carousel for forty-five minutes praying their luggage didn’t end up on a flight to Munich? This slight wrinkle did present me with a new and interesting challenge, however. How to pack for a weekend away in one ‘personal item’ capable of fitting under the seat in front of me.

As we sat at our gate the following morning waiting to board, I crammed and twisted the overstuffed backpack between my legs in preparation for the flight ahead. Alex had asked if there was anything she could take for me in her suitcase but it turned out her work attire took up more space than anticipated and she ultimately had to rescind the offer. As the gate instructions rang out on the speaker overhead, I listened for any clue of how United would enforce its basic economy restrictions. The gate agent droned on about a full flight and pre-boarding families with infants prior to noting that, “All passengers in boarding group six must gate check any carry-on luggage. Only one personal item is permitted in the cabin.” I glanced at the boarding pass on my phone. Boarding group two.

Ironically, Alex’s full-fare economy seat afforded her only boarding group four. Perhaps my upgrade was some vestige of a long-expired premier status, I wondered. Eager to stress-test the system, I took Alex’s carry-on bag and queued up with my fellow premier status flyers. I figured I could always hand it back to her — but to my surprise, I walked right through. No questions asked. Maybe Alex had been right about basic economy after all! Or perhaps it was simply the good fortune of a one-time, boarding-group mixup. Either way, it allowed me to get Alex’s bag situated in the overhead compartment not long before the bins ran out of space.

Oddly enough, I am tapping away on my phone right now, writing this newsletter from SFO’s Gate D15, as we prepare to board our flight for a long weekend in Sedona. This time, I booked us both on basic economy. Wish us luck!

Golden Fried Rice

The Woks of Life, Page 127

In honor of being forced to try things we may not have otherwise chosen for ourselves — ahem, basic economy — we’ve agreed to leave the golden raisins in this recipe. It was a serious debate. Neither of us are fans. But I was admittedly surprised with how much I enjoyed the semi-sweet addition to an otherwise savory and spicy dish. Whereas Alex was caught dumping raisins into the compost bin on our countertop. Too many raisins, she lamented. Not everything can work out as well as the cheap seats, I suppose.

Makes 4 servings

• 1/3 cup dried scallops (1.25 ounces)

• 6 large egg yolks

• 1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine

• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

• 1/4 teaspoon white pepper powder

• 5 cups cooked and cooled long-grain white rice (preferably jasmine)

• 1/4 cup neutral oil

• 1/3 cup diced Chinese cured ham (1.75 ounces)

• 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

• 1 teaspoon minced garlic

• 1/3 cup golden raisins

• 3 scallions, thinly sliced

Step 1. Do ahead. Cook and cool your rice. We use a pressure cooker, but you can also use a rice cooker or the stove top. Cooking it a day ahead allows the rice to cool in the fridge, which makes for a crispier fried rice. You can also place it in the freezer for 20 to 30 minutes as a quick fix.

Step 2. Do ahead. Place the dried scallops in a bowl and cover with hot water. Let soak for about an hour, until rehydrated. Shred the scallops into small pieces with your fingers, drain, and set aside.

Step 3. Lightly beat 3 of the egg yolks in a small bowl. Lightly beat the remaining 3 egg yolks in a large bowl, along with the Shaoxing wine, salt, and white pepper. Add the cooled rice and mix thoroughly.

Step 4. Heat a wok over medium-high heat until it begins to smoke. Add the oil. Dip a wooden chopstick into the oil. When tiny bubbles form around the tip of the chopstick, add the egg yolk and rapidly stir in wide circles, breaking the egg up into long tendrils with your wok spatula. Turn off the heat and remove the egg from oil with a fine-mesh strainer or slotted spoon.

Step 5. With the wok over medium heat, add the scallops and fry for 7 to 10 minutes, until crispy and golden brown. You may find that the frying scallops burst like popcorn from your wok, in which case you will want to have a wok lid nearby. Add the ham for 1 to 2 minutes, until crispy around the edges. Add the ginger and garlic, and cook for another minute.

Increase the heat to high and add the rice. Stir-fry continuously for 2 minutes, until heated through. Add the fried egg yolks, raisins, and scallions. Stir-fry for 1 minute and serve!